Theresa leave kayak gone! and found Drive to Aculco on Rock and Road info.
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Picasso |
... as we turn the corner in the road our search has finally come to an
end. In front of us appears the most promissing sight. A compact little
gorge filled with steep 25-30 meters stone formations which looks like mother
nature's little artistic playground. Had Picasso been a rock climber he
would certainly have climbed at this spot. Beautiful stone pinacles with
the most amazing lines splitting the smooth textures of rock. We have found
a Shangri La at last.
Excited - no, exstatic - we park the van and jump out to have quick initial look at the rock fest that is awating us. The first thing we spot is a couple of climbers sitting belaying a third guy. Sigh! Some fellow believers in rock. We head over to them and it turns out to be our lucky day (expect from Theresa leaving in the morning of course!). |
Local climbers |
Armando and his two friends (a girl and a guy) are some very sympathic climbers from "The City" (Mexico City 80 km's away) ie. locals. They all speak good English and we speak in the good old mix of English/Spanish. Armando quickly offers us to give a tour of the crag, show us the classics and basically pump us full of as much beta that we could have wished for. Absolutely perfect. If we hadn't met these climbers we would be in the usual "oh that line looks do-able and then have a mess on some 5.12 or something like that". Now we get a detailed tour of all the 30 meter splitters scattered around the gorge and Armando knows his stuff. We soon realize that this is serious jamming territory - not the Willerup Brothers most comfortable technique, but one that definately needs practicing and this looks like God's own jamming playing ground. We soon realize that
this is serious jamming territory
We tell Armando that we are sort of looking for climbs in the 5.8,9.10 scale and he shows us a good handful of 5.10's a couple of 5.9's and a heck of a lot of 5.11 and above. Yeikkes. He has climbed most of them, although all the really hard ones have had the bolts stolen by some bastard so there are only a few of those which can be climbed. Armando tells us that he goes to Yosemite every year and has climbed a few big wall routes on El Cap: Salathe Wall and a desperate A4 climb (something with M?) so we are of course not worthy his time at all. :-) He is a nice chap though - not unlike the guys we met in Arico in Tenerife 4 years ago. Actually the crag is very much like Arico in atmosphere, but the climbs are different - most of the routes are perfect cracks and the most of the climbs goes on natural protection. All in all an absolut hidden beauty. |
La Proa 5.8 |
Well after Armando has shown us all the climbs, and we have noted everything down in our notebook and also taken digital photos of all of the lines we prepare ourselves for our first choice - La Proa 5.8 jamming. We didn't need to toss the usual coin - Fred was more than happy to leave the sharp end to me. Okay. I rack up - full set of friends (0, 1, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.8, cam1, 2xcam2, cam3) and a full rack of rocks. The route looks alright from below - the line is obvious and sooner than I know I am in the middle of a pumping commiting jam with absolutely no places to stand. Yeikes - this is hard stuff. I thought a 5.8 was a piece of piss, but no way. I struggle all the way to the top - the protection though is bombproof and the rock is immaculate. I get to the top after a lot of sweating and belay Fred who is seconding me. I am a bit concerned with regards to my good (but old) brother - I only just got the hang of jamming in Yosemite earlier this year and I know that Fred had his problems in the jams on the infamous Fairview Dome ascent a year earlier. But to my big relief and great joy Fred glides up the rock like a swan in spring brunst (!). Yoist!!! We have climbed our first "proper" route for a long time and it is an absolute splitter. Somewhat harder than we would have liked, but it went free and that's all that matters. |
A face climb |
After the climb we touch base with Armando and his two friends and we follow them to the sunny face where Armando is going try a 5.10d and he has a bolted 5.10b in store for the two of us. Hmmm. Well we see the route and this is a face climb, which *should* be at least Mathias' expertise more than anything. The bolts are spacious (four in total) but looks like they are placed exactly where needed. The crux is according to Armando to clip the second bolt and for that reason he suggest climbing with a double rope which we do. Turns out to be a very critical bit of beta. The clip is rather desperate, but all the more rewarding as the sound of the closing carbiner clicks out in the stillness of the gorge. Mathias is leading, unfortunately took a minor wipper on the first bolt, but climbs it clean after that. An absolute must do route if you are in Aculco and are into technical face climbing. Fred follows and rest two times on the rope but finishes up in style. Yoor! We are congratulated by the others and they offer us to try this route that Armando has put up a top rope on. Obviously we are not much for top roping anything, but as a matter of curtisy we accept the offer and hey - we are in Mexico, not in stubborn old Britain. Mathias tries first, hangs once and finishes the route after a very streneous move. Excellent route and jamming test piece, shame I didn't try to lead it. Fred tries it as well, but fails to do the crux move and get lowered down but still get cheered by our three friends. Nice people. The last route we can fit in the afternoon's program is another beautiful line of a splitting crack which supposively is 5.10a. Mathias leads, struggles all the way, especially in the top, and fails to finsish it in pure style as he rests on a friend near the top. A German busdriver looking guy appeared on the top of the crack shouting comments in German to us most of the cilmb, which didn't help much on the concentration, but he disappeared after Fred - as a joke of course - shouted "Denmark to Eideren", but the German maybe thought we ment it seriously and ran away in panic (he was from Slesvig Holstein). Fred seconds the difficult climbs - hangs at the same place but otherwise finished it in fine style. Satisfied with the days activities we head off to the van (parked 10 meters away) to cook supper. (Needless to say we thought it easier to drive into the town and have a nice roasted chicken (26pesos) instead :-). |
We wake up to yet another bright sunny day after a bloody cold night in the van - it must have been really close to freezing. We also ran out of water and completely emptied the battery with our chistmas lights, two computers, loud stereo etc. |
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Easy morning | We take the day as it comes - we are both pretty knackered after yesterday's climbs. Fred does a bit of car maintenance and Mathias tests the christmas present from mum and dad - a watercolor kit. We also clean some old dishes and give the caving kit a thorough cleaning as well. Eventually we drive of towards Bernal where according to Armando there is a big piece of rock with some long multi-pitch routes on it. We do a quick stop in Queretaro to quit our jobs by fax and get some water. |
New rock: Bernal |
Bernal is a little nice town some 40 kilometers east of Queretaro. It lies at the foot of a very big piece of rock. Some 250 meters this dome of limestone rises up from the otherwise bare landscape 2.000 meters over sealevel. It's cold and windy up here and it is a sharp contrast to the previous days venue - this looks like a bit more expedition kind of climbing. The climb we are planning to do is called Chada Dminical and is supposedly bolted with good anchors. We'll see - right now we are sitting in the van at the bottom of the Pena de Bernal (The big rock) and waiting for tomorrow - we have no electricty (the battery doesn't seem to want to recharge itself) so there's is not that much to do. But as they say - "forventningens glaede er den stoerste", so we are enjoying ourselves anyway. |