We leave Bernal in the morning and head for Guadalajara a few hundred kilometers West. Juts a day of driving, really. |
We are camped in the at the top op a huge gorge which is the Huaxtla Canyon. We found a great little spot, built a fireplace, cooked some nice chicken, played some Yatzee and went to bed. It was a bit warmer than the previous nights mainly because we have gone down a few hundred meters. We woke up this morning in total silence - we are the only ones here and it is pretty remote. It's perfect. We have looked closely at the stuff written in Climbing but those guys are all on abut 5.13's and stuff - pretty useless really as it is obviously a bit above our and everybody else's league. The place looks extremely promising - a huge Verdon-like gorge with equally steep faces. The rock is a typical Vulcano-like stone: solid, highly textured and with many pockets and features. |
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Looking down the canyon | We went down to the abseil point at noon and had a bit of a dilemma. We could see the lines of bolts coming up from below and we could spot three achors. The problem is that in the Climbing magazine they are on about using a 70 meter rope to get all the way to the belay of the routes which we don't have. And then secondly the only routes they describe is the 5.13a and a 5.12c. Not the stuff you want to abseil down, pull the rope and then try to negotioate your way up in complete commitment. At least not what we fancied after thinking about it. Unfortunately we where supposed to have had a look at the topo of the area at he climbing shop in Guadalajara yesterday - we found th shop with no problem, but it was closed all day. Bummer. If we knew what routes was down there we would go for it, but it would be crazy just to go down without proper beta. So... What have we decided to do instead? Well there seemed to be two options to choose from. Either we break up our super camp and head for the next crag which is not far away or we stay in our camp, open a few beers, play some guitar, get a good shave, suck up some sun, eat some good food. We have chhhcosen the last opoption. Skaal! |
Remote waterfall | We got up a bit late today and headed up for the crag around mid-day. Carlos and the others was just on the way to a nearby waterfall which sounded pretty fesive so we dump the climbing gear and follow them to waterfall some 30 minuttes away. We hike through some pretty savage bush territory, down some steep dried-out river beds with enormous boulders, and along some neat little irrigation canals for the mango trees further down the valley. This would be completely impossible to find on your own! We end up at the base of a 60ft waterfall, with a big pool, and a natural shower coming out from the side with warm (drinkable) water. Perfect place to clean up and relax after a day on the rock. Carlos and |
Capitan Garfio |
Returned after the waterfall and the showers we check out the whole crag to see if we can make yet another glorious first ascent in this playground. We thouroughly investigate the lines on both sides of the main sector but we can't realy fire ourselves up to start a line. So after a good bit of spotting we decided to do the last 5.10 here - Capitan Garfio - which is a 50 meters sustained mother, lead by a mentally exhausted Matisok and seconded by a psysically drained Frederik. It went free, but it was a f*cking struggle. Great route though. We were too drained to do anything else that afternoon except a fun little bouldering traverse, followed by some relaxing in the German's hammock. |
Mathias foedselsdag, ja. Internet cafe - Still employed Climbing shop open, beta for El Diente looks promising |
Climbing at El Diente met famous Ivan - nice chap
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