Rock for breakfast |
We've set the alarm to 7 o'clock because today we are going to climb some more rock. Ok, so we don't get up before 8:30 but at least we are trying! We spotted 4 routes that we wanted to do today and figured that it would be best to climb two in the morning and two in the evening avoiding the hot mid-day in the burning sun. Yesterday we exhausted ourselves climbing in the mid-day sun. We've established a camp1 up at the crag where all of our gear is hanging ready to be climbed with. This place is absolutely perfect. Mathias starts the day with "Mother of Pump E2 5b,5c" and here is his description of that little baby: |
Mother of Pump |
"It loked like a superb line going for 25 meters finger/hand crack up to a sixable roof and then continuing for anoher 25 meters in hand/fist jam size to a big tree at the top. There had been people before on the route - we could see a sling hanging from a bolt under the roof, which looked like a possbile mdway stance. Sooner than I know it I am on the route banging in gear and jamming my poor fingers in pain up the perfect crack. It was soon obvious that we had again hit gold and I was lucky enough to be leading up such a perfect piece of rock as the morning turn into midday. |
Serious stuff |
I reached the crux a few meters below the roof and stance got some good gear in and deviated the line out on the left face. Somewhate runout to the bolt at the stance which I was glad somebody had put there making it less desperate. It set up a good stance and Fred joined me soon after. We have a look at the route further up and agree that I should finish what I came for and I lead the second more intimidating-looking pitch going over the roof into full exposure. Boy this is and looks like good stuff. Pulling up over the roof was done in a fully commited fist-jam and it looks like this is what the remaing 24 meters is all about - commmiting jams of all sizes. Mega yoist. The gear that goes in is bombproof fortunately because there are some pretty run-out bits further up. With a good deal of "Yoor" it goes free and I top out mentally exhausted (the runouts where quite wild actually) making a stance in the tree hanging from one arm in a perfect jug. Quite an appropriate finish to one of the best routes I have climbed in recent years. It went at around E2 5b,5c." While having lunch at the camp (today we are smart enough not to climb when the sun is at its highest) we check out the article about climbing around Guadalajara in the "Climbing" magazine. It turns out that there is a great-looking photo of the same route we just climbed (page 99) They graded it 5.10d so our E25c bet wasn't completely off. With a good deal of
"Yoor" it goes free
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Fred's lead |
After lunch Mathias is still mentally exhausted from the stunning lead in the morning, but Fred is ready for more action. There was an interesting looking line just to the right of the other climb. I had a quick look at it abseiling down from the route this morning - a little too quick as it turns out. It starts off with two cracks going up each their dihedral, forming a meter wide corner to about half way up at 25m. At 5 meters there is a huge tree sucked to the corner with weird roots going into the cracks. The left crack is pretty wide all the way, perhaps fist size, perhaps larger. The left crack is much smaller and is probably where the protection will take take place. I take off and quickly reach the tree. The climbing is great - classic VS, lots of holds, jamming, and fun bridging. There is even one of those classic layback cracks inside the large lefthand crack. |
Trouble ahead |
At around 15 meters the layback crack disappears, and trouble begins. The left crack widens to offwidth and offer no hope of protection. And, shit!, the right crack disappears completely! I manage to get in our largest friend, a 3.8, in the bottom of the crack, and a reasonable nut to the right. Fuck, it looks like I will have to run it out for 10 meters up to that ledge up there. That would be ok, but the climbing looks pretty dodgy as well - that damn offwidth. Very marginal footholds. No pro. Shit. Hmm, perhaps there is a nut placement up there, just a few moves. I edge myself up a bit, quite worried that if the placement wont take I will be pretty screwed. Luckily it sucks a great-sitting #6 in the little pocket. I edge further up until it is about waist hight. Nu er gode dyr raadne. No more pro, and scary looking territory just above. I stand there for perhaps more than 20 minutes, contemplating everything from going for it to getting lowered down on the little nut right next to me. My arms are resting but my feet are not. At around 15 meters
the layback crack disappears, and trouble begins.
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Where is Mike? |
Last time I was this scared on a climb was in Sandford Quarry about 5 years ago where I was stuck somewhere with really dodgy pro below me, facing perhaps a ground fall. Mike threw a rope down. Where is Mike when you need him? Finally I go for it. I scramble up to a little foothold, jam my left knee in the offwidth, "where is the jug??", further up, no way back now, hey will that pocket take a little friend, hmmm really dubious, up up, shit I am slipping, go for it, no jugs?, just scramble on. Finally I reach the ledge, shaking, but the fucking ledge is just a sloping bastard with no edges and the blocks behind it still don't reveil that "thank god hold". But I should be ok unless I really screw up. A great #2.5 in the crack and I calm down a bit. I climb 5 more meters and make a stance mainly because I am drained, but also because I am running out of gear for the next section. Mathias joins me, luckily confirming that the offwidth section was a desperate mother. |
The Child of Avon |
Mathias kindly volunteers to lead the last 15 meters which doesn't look like a pushover - it is easier to do an alt lead, but really he is probably just concerned that his brother will kill himself on another desperate section. The rock is fairly dubious up there, and the pro is not perfect, but it goes. We ab off a tree, man does it feel good to be on the ground! A memorable route but not because of *** climbing - it was probably E1 5a,5a. Mathias: "I was sweating in my hands watching Fred climbing - but he pulled it through that old child of Avon Gorge". |