Quick Access What's New? Trip Reports Climbing Kayaking Caving Snowboarding Fell Running Scuba Diving Windsurfing Frederik Mathias Profiles Jethro Tull

Trip Report: Climbing Western Saga 5.9

After three successful ticks from the Three Masters of Stone it was my turn to lead again and the next route on the list was Western Saga - a true splitter going through a fierce looking corner and tackling a sizable overhang some 30 meters of the ground. I had a slight bit of commitment quarrels with myself - I felt that Fred and I had done our fair share of adrenaline pumping crack climbs during the last month or so. So I had to find some motivation and Dr. Beale provided this when he confronted me "So are you on for this one Mathias?" - Hmm yeah I hesitated, I don't know it looks pretty steep. "Well if you are not on for it I'll give it a go" Martin replied. Argh, why can't we just call it a day I thought by myself but I knew the only acceptable answer would be "Well I guess I might as well give it a shot". So be it - we quickly fired up the monster rack in the increasing freezing weather, and I stepped into the very steep and bouldery kindoff start. Not too much of a problem though and I felt good about the decision as I placed my first bomber piece of pro.

I soon found myself jamming in the crack provided and there was plenty of footholds and I got up to a big ledge where it looked like the serious stuff was starting. Boy - so far the route felt really good - maybe it was tricky but I just felt like I was flowing up the rock, the route that I had led earlier this day had gone without any problems whatsoever which I was very surprised about - expecting the 5.8 crack to give my plenty of troubles. Now I had upped the bet to 5.9 and was definitely expecting to be under serious pressure - I was even starting of the route with the "If I can't do this route Martin will be on for leading it instead" kindoff thoughts - so I was really pleased with the first 20 meters below me.

The stuff above me looked familiar - hand sized crack going some ten meters up to a roof and continuing up unknown territory - looked very much like many of the splitters we climbed in Aculco and El Escalone. There is only one way around this stuff as far as I see it. Get some pro in as high as you can reach, look for the first possible restpoint, get committed and then just f*cking go for it. Once you are doing the jamming/laybacking business there is no way back. To my great surprise the crack had edges inside and it was possible to layback a lot of the way. Cool! I love laybacks so any opportunity and you find me hanging out there "Avoiding the problem" as Martin would put it.

Anyway - I got my Camelot 2 as high as I could reach, spotted a small crimpy ledge on the left and went in for the business. I wasn't more than perhaps one meter of the ledge and I though - this'll never go - than crimp looks shite and there is still 3 meters to the jug looking feature on the right. Go on Matis - this is what we are here for to pull hard and to tick some savage cracks. Yoist! It works - I get myself fired up and start just going for it 100%. Great! Get some gear in, reach the crimp - fine. Jam, Layback bridge with the feet - m I want you. I want you badly. Fire off some more of the rack. Great - the no 4 camelot goes in smoothly, no need for lubricant creme. Get those bloody feet sorted out - there's way to much power on the arms. Yeah baby that's better. Holy rock I am already at the roof - God that looks big but after sticking a superb cam1 in on the edge of the roof there is only one thing on my mind. Sex. I just want to pull out on the roof, get the full exposure and then explore the unknown territory above. I feel good. I have the feeling that the hardest part is over and done with and it's just a matter of pulling up and enjoying the climax.

---

My oh my, this baby is just spreading her legs for me.

---

Yoooooooooooor! Yoor! Yoor! Yooor! The roof is excellent - a sudden foothold appear from nowhere and it just sits there in the left rib and I use it - first with one foot - then with the other foot and then with both of them. Ahhh, this is great. There hand business in the roof is proving a bit tricky but voice tells me "no, not the left hand, use your right hand and you'll get up". So done and bang everything falls into place as I explode up in one big crescendo.

The terrain above me is gentle and sweet - the perfect afterplay. I get it over with quickly as one does and at the stance I fall asleep, drained, excited and too tired to belay Martin of Fred up through this Woman of Rock.