Grade: [Ice] [UK] [French] [US] [Wish list]
November 2021
October 2021
Blame Canada HVS 5a ⭐🎬Video lead FZ
Brilliant route. You abseil down to the base and have to climb out. This is the easiest route out.
Toker och Glader HS lead FZ
Prosit och spader VS 4b lead FZ
Baesta Leden i Valesrod E1 5b lead FZ
September 2021
Navnloes HVS 5a lead FZ
Japanerruten VS 4c lead FZ
August 2021
Easy Walling VS lead RS
November 2020
October 2020
Hoggfarmen E2 5b ⭐📷Photo
lead FZ
Stunning line and a great route. If you are looking for pure splitter fun in Bohuslan (and you are) then this one is a really good choice.
Mallorol E2 5c 💪⭐💯📷Photo
lead FZ
On an otherwise rainy weekend this one suddenly came into the suggestion pool. Luckily the sun broke through and we climbed this classic in perfect conditions. It wasn't clear to me where the broken foothold was.
Aaterkomsten HS ☔
sec FZ
June 2020
Linker Einstieg Agent Orange VS 🦎
alt KK
Excellent last route if the 3 day visit. The roof part is brilliant.
Haegar E1 5b 🌟🌤💯☔🦎 alt KK
The striking line of the area. We were doing pretty well though I had to pull on the gear in the crux roof - it was soaking wet.
Gone with the weed VS 4c 🦎
alt KK
January 2020
Monday Money W4 🧊 🥀🦎 📷Photo
alt SF
Picked one of the big ones. Long walk in and an absolutely knackering climb up to the base of the ice fall. We started the first pitch but were drained after the walk and hill climb. We bailed.
August 2019
Originalruten VS 4c sec FZ
May 2019
Babianen Direkt HVS 5a lead KR
Mirceas led E2 5c top
Self top rope. No partners. Brilliant practice for finger crack techniques.
April 2019
100 dagar E1 top
Kenneths Led VS lead KR
Gunnars skraeck VS lead KR
Bananblocket E1 5b lead KR
Oles crack HVS 5a lead KR
March 2019
February 2019
January 2019
Unnamed W4 🧊 lead JC
Trappfoss W4 🧊 alt JC
I Just Love a Nice Stein Pull! M6+ 🧊 💪⭐
sec JC
October 2018
Tjabo HS sec FZ
Roennleden VS sec FZ
September 2018
Runt Hoernet VS 4b lead KR
Tunnsprickan VS 4b 📷Photo
lead KR
There was Yoor flowing everywhere that evening. Climbers everywhere - even a team, 2 girls and a guy, starting up a face aid climbing in the dark as we left - totally on for it. The girl flood litted the face with a handheld kowalski light while aid-boy was making his slow progress upwards. They had the yoor.
Kanten f6a lead KR
August 2018
Berguven E1 5b lead MB
Tag mig harifron S lead MB
Byggeman Bob S lead MB
Oedhumlan S lead MB
Baesta Leden i Valesrod E1 5b ⭐
lead MB
DNA E1 5b lead MB
Slippery when wet VS 4b lead MB
Bergkirstis polska E1 5b 💪🌟💯
lead MB
Ven Nord SAIL ⭐
CW EW
Excellent trip. A few dramas. Engine stop on the way into harbour. Lightning in the night.
July 2018
Pollux HVS 5a lead FZ
Megera E2 5b ⭐💪 lead FZ
Happy with onsight of hidden gem of grade 6 jam crack. Sustained and awesome.
June 2018
Skaerselden HS lead KR
Alfa Helix HVS 5a lead KR
May 2018
I andra hand HVS ⭐
lead FZ
Ornen S 🌤
alt FZ
En fyra for en myra HS alt FZ
Jaernkaminen VS 4c lead FZ
Hakke Hakkespett HVS 5a lead FZ
Byggmester Bob S lead FZ
Aelgens Oeverraskning HVS 5a ⭐
lead JC
Excellent route. I had been wanting to do this for a while. Perfect warm evening for it.
Granny Smith HVS 5a ✨
lead KR
Finally got round to do this. A bit manky in the crack and a ravens nest mid way (with a mother raven and dad raven flying around squeaking) made the route nice to have put behind us
April 2018
Braennvinsleden HVS 5a lead
Hollywood E4 6b 🤸🌟
lead- JC
Tried a difficult route. Protection bomber and midway I thought I had it in the bag. And then the crux spat me off. Tried with difficulty to do the crux and eventually got it. Exciting. Will be back for a red point attempt.
March 2018
Tjonstadbergfossen W4 🧊 🌟
alt SF
Swiss Army W4 🧊 🌟
lead SF
Camillas Foss W4 🧊 ✨
sec SF
To menn og et foster W4 🧊 alt SF
Sean dropped 4 of my ice screws on the route! Even so, we had a great time.
Bullen W4 🧊 ✨
sec SF
January 2018
Bullen W3 🧊 lead KR
Unknown W2 🧊 lead KR
Swiss Army W4 🧊 🌟
lead KR
Champangefrukost E1 5b 🥀 ☔
lead MB
Liten og Full f6b 👊 🌟
solo
Till HVS 5b alt KR
November 2017
Gunnars skraeck HVS 5a 🎬Video
solo
Gunnars skraeck HVS 5a top
Gritslabben HVS 5b top
October 2017
Alcove Crack HVS 5a 🌟 lead RS MB
Led the one Royston did the day before. A perfect route for rainy conditions
Chequers Crack HVS 5c 🌟 sec- RS MB
Excellent lead by Martin. I popped off just before the rest midway.
September 2017
Pocket Symphonie HVS lead RS
The Thorn HVS sec RS
Gargoyle Butress VS sec RS
Zagrete HS sec RS
Sneda Sprickan VS 4b sec KR
Roennleden VS sec KR
Svara Diedret E3 6a top
Bantaren HVS 5a top
Tioringen D sec
I would say that is is wider not narrower than the other ow mentioned in the book. Excellent route.
August 2017
Kenneths led VS 4c lead KR
Gomorra VS 4b lead KR
Lilla Hornet D sec KR
Tunnsprickan VS 4b lead KR
Svarta Diedret HVS 5a lead KR
Borta med vinden HVS 5a lead KR
July 2017
Allez au Diable f6a+ ⭐
lead FW
Palimpsest HVS 5a lead LP
Spagaten HVS 5a lead KR
March 2017
Great Portland Street HVS 5b 🌟
sec TW
Hell Crack VS 4c 🌟
lead TW
Straight Ahead HVS 5a sec TW
Olivia VS 4c lead KR
Vaaroffer E1 5b lead MB
A lot more tricky than it looks. The jams are flaring and not very deep. Glad it went free.
Fimbull HVS 🌟
lead MB
Game On VS lead MB
Jaernkaminen VS 4c lead MB
Jungfrun S lead MB
Villskudd E1 5b ⭐💪💯
lead MB
Anakje W3 🧊 🌟
alt FZ
Introduction climb for Frits. The ice was the best I have climbed so far. One blow and the pick was placed.
Blindtarmen W4 🧊 lead FZ
Good ice all the way. Highlight of the weekend. I found the second pitch pretty steep and sustained. Top belay was in-situ slings with maillon around a block (as opposed to the guidebook bolted belay) and the half-way belay and abseil point was to in-situ bala-threads without maillon. The guidebook description is odd: we walked up easy slope to the what we would describe as the first pitch. Did then a full rope length (50m) on quite steep ice and then a second 40m to the top with some bridging out of the left rock wall.
Fabrikkfossen W3 🧊 lead FZ
Nice long and easy for the grade I thought. Abseil on trees all the way down on the right facing the waterfall. Worked fine on a 50m rope.
Gaustaspoekelse W4 🧊 lead FZ
Ozzimosis W4 🧊 lead FZ
February 2017
Patri W4 🧊 🥀
alt PW
Everything I hate about ice climbing in the alps. Long walk-ins, queues at the routes and unpredicatable avalanche conditions. We bailed mid-way due to disagreements on commitments.
Acherote W3 🧊 🥀
alt PW
Lillaz W3 🧊 alt PW
Better day than the day before. Finished with festive snowball attack on Richard and Tim.
October 2016
Jungfrun S lead KR
Nunnegurkan HVS 5a lead KR
August 2016
Fingret VS 5a sec MB
Cora S sec MB
I andra hand HVS 5a ⭐💯
alt MB
Troettmoessans Tystnad E1 5b lead MB
Den Gamla Klassikern VS 4c ⭐
alt MB
Excellent route at the main face of Haller. First pitch requires solid worming skills - bring a Camelot 4 for the crux. Second pitch is more difficult than the guidebook suggests but it does go. Be a bit careful going across the boulder choke and make sure you find the good hand hold on the right going through the final roof. Exposed. Well worth it. Walk off the crag going all the way across the ledges to the path in the forest. Yoor!
Oktober HVS 5a lead MB
Jamspricka nr 1 E1 5b ⭐💪💯
sec MB
Aatervaendsgraenden E1 5b ⭐
lead MB
Asterix och Obelix VS 4c 🌟
lead MB
Tornerose E2 5c lead FZ
Single Handjam VS 4b lead FZ
Japanerruten VS 4c lead FZ
June 2016
Fridstoraren HVS 5a ⭐
lead
Spagaten HVS 5a ⭐
lead
Alfa Helix HVS 5a ⭐
lead
Braennvinsleden HVS 5a ⭐
lead JS
Highlight of the evening. Boy was I pumped mid way. Quite strenous in the start traverse. A Cam3 is a real life saver (as always).
Roennleden HS lead JS
Spagaten HVS 5a lead JS
Josefinelust Overhaenget E2 5c ⭐
lead FZ
First route of the day. This one had been on my wishlist for a while and what a route! Excellent line up perfect rock.
Flagermusen HVS 5a ⭐💯
lead FZ
I had the feeling I had done this before (which I had, 13 years ago), but as I climbed it it all felt new. Brilliant route.
Aero f6c 🌟
lead FZ
Did this as the last route of the day. Super pleased that I onsighted it and had plenty of power to spare. Freak Brothers next!
Karpouzy f6a 🌟
lead TW
Tomboy f6a 🌟
lead TW
Remember Wadi Rum f6c 🌟
lead TW
April 2016
March 2016
February 2016
Bjornstadsbekken W4 🧊 🥀💯
alt PW
A stunning line in perfect condtions. For some reason Paul did not want to finish the complete climb
Lillehammer W3 🧊 alt PW
Oppdal W3 🧊 alt PW
January 2016
October 2015
Fredagens led S sec KR
Robins crack HVS 5a 🌟
lead KR
Excellent climb. Next time we will climb with without using the tree for the feet. :)
Bananblocket E1 5b ⭐
lead KR
Continuation of Robins crack. Excellent route. Thought we did a VS and it turned out to be E1 as we consulted the book afterwards. Nice!
Elektricitet VS 4c lead KR
Doable in the dark. Good for when you just can't get enough rock. Interesting little problem with an exciting finish.
Oles crack HVS 5a 🌟
lead KR
After work climb. Excellent line. Remember to save the Cam 4 for the break. Negotiated the mantle in stranded whale style: it worked but it wasn't pretty. Excellent climb.
September 2015
Plugghaesten E1 5b 🤸🌘 📚Report
lead- KR
Seemed like the easiest way up from the ledge. Great route shame I had to hang on the gear. Need more jamming practice. Lots more.
Originalruten VS 4c sec FZ
Mefisto f6c 🤸
lead- KR
Franska Trick f6c 💯
lead FZ
Did this route as the last of the day: it was ambitious and I was super pleased I got up it clean. It was at the edge of my greasy fingers at the very top. It's an excellent route.
August 2015
Babianen HS lead KR
Felt a lot harder than it should. Good effort from Kaspar as the routed required a few jamming moves.
Jocko HVS 5a lead FZ
Cracks and Slabs S lead FZ
Ventetiden S lead FZ
Done in the approaching storm and darkness. Excellent to get a route in before camping.
July 2015
Bastille VF 🔗 ⭐🌤💪📷Photo
lead AX
Axel on the Grenoble via ferata. 9 years old. At the limit. The yoor made it happen.
June 2015
Nalle Puh f5c sec FZ
Subba f6a sec FZ
Carl Gustavs HP f6a lead KR
Nalle Puh f5c lead KR
Silvias VF f5c lead KR
Highway 66 f5c 💯
lead KR
December 2014
October 2014
June 2014
Mont Blanc TD 🏔 🥀💪
SF
Excellent trip to Mont Blanc with Mark, Sean and Mark. Got to 4000 something and returned.
May 2014
January 2014
Ozzimosis W4 🧊 lead
July 2013
Chimney Route VS 4c alt MB
Curving Crack VS 4c alt MB
Pedestal Crack HVS 5a alt MB
May 2013
Vaxelstrom f6c 👊 solo
March 2013
Sabotoerfossen W5 🧊 lead AK
Verdens Ende W5 🧊 💯
alt AK
Vermorkfossen W5 🧊 ⭐
lead AK
Vermork Bridge West W5 🧊 lead AK
July 2012
No Crack for Old Men f6b+ 🌟
sec TW
Bixhead Mine ✨
lead DG
Shape-Up E2 5b ⭐
sec MB
Excellent effort of Martin. It is the easiest line out of Huntsman Leap and it is by no means easy.
Army Dreamers HVS 5a ⭐ lead MB
The Arrow E1 5b ⭐ lead MB
Bludgeon HVS 5a ⭐ lead MB
March 2012
Bullen W3 🧊 lead SF
Sean kicked off the weekend of ice with a steady good lead up the right hand gully. Ice wet but good ice
Broken Pillar W5 🧊 💪
lead SF
Just brilliant. Precarious climbing up the free hangin pillar. A peak of my sport ice climbing career
Fyrstikka W5 🧊 ⭐📷Photo
lead SF
My first WI5! intimedating looking from below but the wall training had me totally fired up for this sort of job. Super route.
May 2011
Landerslev 🏄 SG
April 2011
February 2011
October 2010
Robinsson Pillar D lead JG
Hang to the rose/thorn. Comitting. Right foot small hold. Nice solid breaks
Freaking Crack VS lead JG
August 2010
Akerskanten IV- 🌟 lead AN
Nice traverse followed by a short but satisfying climb up the exposed arete. Great to have Jakob following teaching Anton the ins and outs of rock climbing.
July 2010
Lindtorp 🪂 ⭐
PP
Just as I thought I was getting comfortable with it all Allan phone me up with a last chance before going back to CPH to try towing. I said yes and got towed up to 300 meters height and then released my thingy and had a mad mad flight down to earth. It was absolutely mental and I was just screaming and giggling the whole way down. Awesome kick!
June 2010
Toftum 🪂 ⭐
PP
Brilliant session with lots of top landing and take offs. Managed to stay from the beach the whole time and was generally pretty much comfortable with everything. Great fun.
Bovbjerg Fyr 🪂 PP
Another great session at Bovbjerg. This time top starting and just enough wind to keep on hanging. It required care with the flying and I ended up on the beach a few times. Biggest tick was a couple of 100% self supported take-offs from a remoter spot and flying back to the others gaining height. Super satisfying.
Bovbjerg 🪂 ⭐
PP
Awesome session learning to beach start. Quite tricky and also a notch up on the danger scale. Really good fun though flying low over the sand dunes and taking off and landing constantly. Also went with PP; <7> flying all over to the lighthouse which was a great trip.
May 2010
Toftum 🪂 ⭐💯
PP
The tick is in the bag! Ever since the first session in Toftum this place remained number one on the ticklist. Great session feeling really in control all the time. The new school wing is really comfortable and launches and handles really smooth. Did 3 succesfull top landings and 2 beach landings. The wind picked up in the end making the last run a bit epic.
Hamborg 🪂 ⭐
PP
Fully self supported with Poul on the ground obviously. Had some crash landings which I learned a lot from. Landed with my bum on the top on the slope (controlled) and in a fence (not controled).
April 2010
March 2010
Gaustaspoekelse W4 🧊 alt PW
February 2010
Kitesnow Excercise 🏄 solo
Ice kite 🏄 solo
January 2010
Struer 🏄 ⭐💯
solo
Snow kite - awesome
November 2009
Cold Hawaii 🏄 💪💯⭐
solo
At last I felt ready to go to the north sea. Amazing ride.
Klovvig 🏄 ⭐
solo
Superb and brilliant flat water spot discovered
October 2009
Wave session 🏄 ⭐
solo
June 2009
Franska Trick f6b 🌟 top
Traditionel HS 🌟 lead
Climbed with Marco at Jean Gab's wedding.
May 2009
Ejsing 🏄 solo
Quikcy 🏄 solo
Off shore 🏄 💀
solo
In the search for pancake flat water I went out in pure off shore wind at a place where the water gets deep quickly and in really cold water (only just finished April). Eventually I fell over and could get the kite back up in time before the water was getting me really cold. I decided to quickly emergency release the kite (which wasn't trivial) and swim to shore. The kite took off on its own on the water. I drove to the nearest harbour and chartered a boat to go out and rescue the kite. Quite an epic afternoon.
April 2009
Lundoe 🏄 solo
September 2008
Ejsing 🏄 ⭐
solo
16m2 kite. Old school
March 2008
Butterfly VS 4c alt MB
January 2007
April 2006
Ocean Slabs AD 💯
alt AW
Merlin's Wand E2 6a alt AW
February 2006
November 2005
Agen Allwedd 🪖 ⭐ TW MB
Excellent digging trip to dig 9. Also saw the Corkscrew Chamber which was found the day before.
June 2005
Originalruten S ⭐ lead MB
A long held desire to show KU to Martin is realised. Climbed on a borrowed rack from Fred and Martin using a sling as a harness. Good climb squeezed in betimeen social engagements. Very kind of Martin to give the climb three stars.
March 2005
No Musketeers HVS 4c ⭐
sec MB
All For One... HVS 5a ⭐
sec MB
After the cave spankotronic on Saturday I was struggling on everything. The drive to Gatwick afterwards was desperate.
November 2004
Agen Allwedd 🪖 ⭐
MB
A visit to the digface in Grolsch Passage. Managed to make about 2 meters progress removing 22 trays of spoil. The whole passage is really impressive.
May 2004
Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5a ⭐
lead MB
The Spanish Inquisition E1 5a ✨
lead MB
Agen Allwedd 🪖 ⭐
RS MB
Continuing the dig. Excellent burly trip. I enjoyed being at the sharp end much more this time. We've hit a boulder section.
Agen Allwedd 🪖 ⭐
MB
Digging trip towards Daren. Excellent team effort hard work but good fun. Digging is not for the claustrophic amongst us.
Gundabad E1 5b 🌟
lead MB
Lovely route. Climbed 30 mins after arrival at Bristol Airport. Every airport should have a crag.
March 2004
Maskhill Mine 🪖 ⭐💀 TW RS MB
Brilliant rig. World class. The subsequent connection was an ultra burly bit of caving. I was particularly traumatised by the gravel-stream squeeze that nearly caught me on the return. Next time I will remember to turn my head the right way. Good effort from Martin leading this bit and not drowning while reversing in the sump. Double black helmet.
January 2004
Ogof y Daren Cilau 🪖 ⭐📚Report
RS MB AW FW
Highlights: sucessfull use of heyphone wading through bonzai streamway pushing to Aquenos Choke. Exit series felt hard.
November 2003
Bonbogies HVS 5a ⭐
lead MB
Lovely climb. Make sure you don't do the direct as the traversing has some excellent moves in it. Ticked just before my plane left back to Copenhagen. Thanks Martin.
Ogof y Daren Cilau 🪖 ⭐ RS MB
Two-nighter into Dweebland (the end of the cave so far). Excellent trip. Flawlessly executed. We let off two smoke bombs (one failed) at the end to see if there's a draught towards Aggen Allwed. There is. Get your crowbars out!
Nibelheim VS 4b 4a 4c 4b 🌟
alt SF
August 2003
Handjam IV 🌟 Excellent jamming route.
lead JR
Tyskeruten V+ ⭐ Jesper did well in following.
lead JR
Den hoeje travers III+ 🌟
lead JR
Den hoeje travers III+ 🌟
lead HW
Great weekend of climbing bbq'ing picnic'ing and scubadiving! We brought *all* the gear to the crags + kids.
Den Rode Platte IV ✨
lead AN
Anton's first climb. He was so keen on more that instead of walking of from the stance we mountaineered our wayh to the summit climbing a few other routes on the way up.
July 2003
Aiguille Dibona f6c 🔩💯⭐📷Photo
alt RS AW
Excellent little expedition efficiently executed by our three-person's team.
June 2003
Dyt IV ✨
lead CW
Originalruten V ⭐
lead CW
Incredible rute up the exposed arete of one of the most impressive walls on KU. It was quite wet in the bottom requiring a bit of mad going for it in the start which unfortunately turned Celine of the idea of climbing it this time.
May 2003
Svenskeruten V- ⭐
lead CW
Papillon V 🌟
lead FW
I had done this before. A great route an easier version of its neighbor Flagermusen equally interesting.
Den hoeje travers III+ 🌟
lead FW
I love this route. It is easy but it is a real little adventure. Great positions.
Freja 4 ✨
lead FW
In celebration of Seans newborn daughter called Freja Fred and I climbed the crag of this little baby.
February 2003
Pylone Right W3 🧊 ✨
lead PW TW
Managed to squeeze an ice climb out of a visiting German friend. We didn't do much but it was worth it.
La Colere du Ciel W3 🧊 ⭐
alt TW PW
Excellent route. Super festive glissade down to the valley afterwards.
Symphonie d'automne W4 🧊 💯📷Photo alt TW PW
The classic of the crag. Excellent snowblade descent afterwards.
January 2003
Caturgeas W5 🧊 🔥💯⭐💪 sec SF
600 meters of pure ice! We ticked all of it although it took us 15 hours! (and then 3 hours to get down). Quite a day out.
Chizarton W3 🧊 ✨
lead JA
Initiation ice climb for James. He did very well. The finishing top is quite unpleasant.
December 2002
July 2002
La Demande f5c 🥀💯
alt FW
Fred and I tried our luck with this 11 pitch classic. Eventually backed off due to approaching storm and lacking yoor. Quite good we did. A little epic.
Bernard f5b ✨
sec FW
Plika Fibreuse f5c 🔩 lead FW
Scialet de la Chique 🪖 FW
Fred's first rig in the Vercors unmedium. The pendulum was as festive as ever and worth noting is that we managed to get up that climb in the end (fairly committing) taking us all the way to the bottom.
La Mule f6a 🔩 sec
Lovely little pump
Au dela de la Verticale f6c 🔩 sec
Went free this time but self toproped because of lack of commited partners. This is definitely the route of the crag.
Au dela de la Verticale f6c 🤸🔩 sec AL
Al took a nasty lob on the top crux. I topped out afterwards using Al's ropes from his attempt. That route will go free next time.
La Mule f6a 🤸🔩 sec AL
Good effort from visiting Ahut member Al I had to bail out on the crux pumped out.
Belle de Jour f5+ 🔩 sec AL
Apres de mon Abre f4c 🔩 sec CW
I let Celine lead this one and got while she was at the top out of view, I got undressed to climb it nude and to arrive nude at the stance - for festive purposes.
La Vie Eternelle f6c 🔩 lead CW
Excellent place this Ardeche. Finally had a go on something a bit harder and although I had to rest on the rope three times I was quite pleased with the tick.
Hang on f6a 🔩⭐
lead cw
Celine f5+ 🔩 lead CW
The neighbourgh route to Mathias - is called Celine. Nice and tricky little number.
Mathias f5 🔩 lead CW
Great little route with the same name as me! Superb position overlooking GR Vercors and The Alps. Great evening crag.
June 2002
Assurance Tous Risque f5a 🔩 lead CW
Good lead from Celine
Cacaboum f4c 🔩 sec CW
Neuleu f6a 🔩🌟
lead CW
Vasidoux f4c 🔩 lead CW
Acrobuis f5a 🔩 lead CW
Scialet de la Chique 🪖 🌟 MB
Excellent cave - easy in all respects (rig and walkin). Martin regained his unfire with a steady lead to the bottom. All bolts overtightened subtracts a star good photoshooting and muddy fun adds it back.
Scialet du Pot de Loup 🪖 🧭Topo
PW
Nice trip with Paul which regained his interest in caving. A great easy cave.
Scialet du Pot 2 🪖 ⭐🥀 MB TW
The Pot 2 attempt - Grosvenor style. Martin lead down to -80 meters. To be continued.
Scialet de Malaterre 🪖 🧭Topo MB PW TW
Tried out my new caving radios which works extremely well on these long vertical pitches.
Scialet A2 🪖 ⭐📷Photo🧭Topo
MB
Full on caving. Included a dangerous 25 meter pitch lead in Wellingtons with only a sling and my bolt kit (thank god for that) as protection. Fantastic cave - highly recommendable.
Les Grandes Mulets f5b 🔩 lead CW
Tango pour un Viking f6c 🔩🌟
lead
May 2002
Zim Dime f5c 🔩✨
lead CW
Scialet de Malaterre 🪖 🧭Topo
JA
Great initiation trip for the new speleo recruit. Messed up the logistics by forgetting one descender at the training wall back in the hut. We managed nevertheless and bottomed out the main shaft in style. Good effort from James it being his first real vertical cave.
Ad Hoc f5+ 🔩✨
lead CW
Stardust f6a 🔩 lead CW
I like this area - the rock somewhat resembles that of AV. Good evening venue.
Crysalide f4+ 🔩 lead CW
N.R.J. f5+ 🔩✨
lead CW
April 2002
Boschido 5.10c 🔩⭐
lead JB
The route of the crag. Superbly natural line weaving it's way up this huge exposed basalt pillar. The locals were impressed by the onsight tick. I was well pleased. Sustained.
Desert Shield Right 5.8 🔩✨
lead JB
Desert Shield 5.10a 🔩⭐
lead JB
Clip em or Skip em 5.7 🔩 lead JB
Whipsaw 5.7 🔩 lead JB
Ride em Cowboy 5.9 🔩⭐
lead
Superb route up the arete of one of the endless basalt columns
La Directe des Gupes f6a 🔩⭐ lead CW
Superb route. Three sustained pitches takes you to the summit of this excellent place.
March 2002
Le Gastronome f5+ 🔩🌟 lead CW
After yesterdays epic we only did one pitch of this fairly bolt spaced out classic.
Vois de Trou f5+ 🔩🌟 lead CW
Excellent little expedition. Got the to summit just as the sun disappeared on the horizon. Three long abseils in complete darkness saw us down eventually. Good effort from Celine who had only abseiled once before.
Abolition f5b 🔩🌟
lead CW
Humanismous f5b 🔩✨
lead CW
Glaciere d'Autrans 🪖 ⭐🧭Topo
MB
Desperate. Approach was as hard as ever and the amount of ice in the cave was worrying, although on the same time ultra festive. Martin fired up an inspirational ice-stal-chopping session as we were stopped but an almost complete blockage of ice in the entrace tunnel. Reaching a depth of approximately 100 meters we eventually decided that this was a black helmet danger zone. Huge television sized blocks of broken off ice was scattered around the shaft, and after a quick statistic calculation on when the next bit of ice could be coming down, we decided to blow retreat horn and hurried out after exhaustive cold caving session.
Scialet des Joufflus 🪖 🧭Topo MB
Excellent job to the bottom. The route finding to the last pitch is a bit tricky until you realize you have to gnarl your way through a hole in the roof (upwards) with the festive aid of a spit/stal sling. The squeeze to the beginning of the last pitch is not as bad as it looks - go in feet first and you can stand up half way (not imidiately obvious). Yoor!
Niou-Niou f6a 🔩🌟
lead AW
Interlude f5+/6a 🔩✨
sec AW
Power f7a 🤸🔩✨
sec AW
The guidebook is wrong in this sector and I ended up fighting a hard battle against this 7a thing. Got to the top after two rests.
Transit f6a 🔩✨
sec AW
Scialet des Joufflus 🪖 🧭Topo
AW
Really easy when you've already done it once (but not all the way to the deck). The approach was definitely the crux walking in thigh/waist deep snow to the cave. A festive day. Good effort from Andrew who hadn't caved for 10 years and was srt'ing on a rather made up and minimal rack.
February 2002
Ogof y Daren Cilau 🪖 ⭐⭐📚Report
MB RS TW JT
Long trip with an overnight camp in the Hard Rock Cafe. The further speed trip to The Microns was a seriously burly piece of work. Good effort from Martin doing the car shuttle on foot both ways and for the amble lager refreshments in the Hard Rock Cafe and Royston for the very inspirering bit of cave leading in the Rock Steady Cruise.
Grotte de Bournilllon 🪖
Went up to have a look. Couldn't resist. Went in. Normal way too wet so I opted for the highlevel dry fossil way which was much longer than I expected and with some pretty nasty (but polished and obvious) squezes. Good training but cave soloing doesn't feel very clever.
January 2002
Chizarton W3 🧊 ✨
lead CW
Lots of fresh snow made the ice climbing less pure. Still a good initiation climb for Celine who did very well.
Version Originale W3 🧊 sec PE
Climbed with Pete from the internet. Meeting him was a fun story. Hooked up prior to Facebook and all that - internet was more a forum for nerds (like me). We met at a bar in BourgdOissan and Pete was a travelling ice climber just like I was at my trips to Chamonix before I moved to Grenoble. So he was carrying _all_ his gear and was fairly random in general. After we had climbed he kept sticking to me and came to my flat at Valentines day walking up the stairs in ski boots. As I was courtisating Celine at the time (we had just met) I was a bit in a dilemma inviting him in. The dilemma was a lot of fun.
Sans Issue W5 🧊 ⭐
lead PE
Excellent route visible from the valley below. I found this dude who was keen to climb and it worked out nicely.
Le Voile du Chizarton W4 🧊 ⭐
top
Self toproped because I'm such a sad lonely git down here in France. Excellent stuff though - did it four times for some proper forearm training. Selftoproping worked really well with the Petzl Traction. Ice conditions are *superb* this year.
December 2001
Gaping Gill 🪖 ⭐🔥💯📚Report
TW MB RS
Lateral Shaft. Superb rig avoiding most of the water of the main shaft. Mindblowing
Gaping Gill 🪖 ⭐💀
TW MB RS JT
Main Shaft. Wild decent. Although the water level was low we ended up right in the end waterfall which is serious stuff and very scary but excellent adrenalin fun at the same time. The tick is home!
November 2001
Ogof Ffynnon Ddu 🪖 MB RS
A job needed to be finished. We wanted to finish yesterdays objective of getting to Smiths Armery but the area was in flood now and we made it past the traverses into OFD3 and reached the roaring streamway which was fantastic to watch but a certain deathtrap to enter. Great trip
Ogof Ffynnon Ddu 🪖 DG RS MB
We did an unplanned round trip due to some tricky navigation in the Shambles. On one of the many tricky climbs Tom lobbed of and fell around three meters but luckily landed on his feet and not on one of the sharp boulders. He sprained his angle badly and we abandoned the trip and got out safely.
October 2001
Bon Interlude f5+ 🔩🌟🥀
lead RI
Great to be out in Presles. Big route at 280m. We only did the two first pitches.
Grotte Gournier 🪖 JR
Jesper's first caving experience. Another team was already in there which unfortunately took the edge of the scaryness factor and it was really plain sailing. Still enjoyable.
September 2001
Grotte Gournier 🪖 WW
As festive as caving gets. This huge and relatively easy cave is guarded by a big lake which we crossed in my new rubber dinghy. Seriously festive approach. Followed by a 6 meter steep climb directly from the mooring spot and then a 30 meter high leve traverse with some fairly serious exposure. Great cave.
Scialet de Pot de Loup 🪖 DS
Good SRT initiation trip for David. We went down the 40 meter pitch and then up again. Got through most of the SRT curriculum including a helping hand from above once or twice. It was raining heavily the whole day but the cave stayed dry.
June 2001
Trou de Glaz 🪖 DS
Went back for a further exploration. Annabel announced her disgust of the un-rock but David is keen on more. This cave is massive. Over 50 kilometers of known passageway with numerous through trips under Dent de Crolles. The mountain is basically completely hollow and will be the focus of activity in the near future. As with all Grenoblois speleoaction it requires a fully equipped SRT team to explore.
May 2001
Trou de Glaz 🪖 MB CW
Walked up the Dent de Crolles. Nipped in to a huge cavity with our c-rack. Massive draft coming out of the cave. Will be back for further exploration.
Scialet de Pot de Loup 🪖 🧭Topo
MB
Absolutely superb SRT trip. Beautiful lines and an amazing 40m drop from an overhanging speleothem. Easy and highly recommendable. Approach - 8 seconds from the car.
Glaciere d'Autrans 🪖 ⭐🎬Video
MB
Long day out. 13 hours including the walk. We got back to Grenoble at 4am in the morning. See map
Trou de Diable 🪖 🧭Topo MB
Beautiful walk-in - quite long. Descended amazing looking shaft (140 meters straight!). 10 meter down bolt ripped. Mission aborted. Glad to be alive. See map
Chamonix 🏂 🌤
solo
Got the randonee skis out and revisited the Grande Jorasse basin where Fred and I had been 7 years ago. Went up to Refuge Lascaux (2450m) and headed back. Brilliant trip. 6 hours
Transit f6a 🔩✨📷Photo
lead RI
Excellent day out in this superb crag. The rucksack were full - but where in in England it would be full of climbing gear - here in France mine was full of flute watermelon cheese and pate. :-)
N.R.J. f5+ 🔩⭐
lead RI
Nose Dik f5 🔩 lead
Crysalide f4+ 🔩 lead
Micro-Fissures f5+ 🔩 lead RI
Quite a hard start for the grade. Unless you do as most French people - pull the quickdraw.
Noname3 f6a+ 🔩⭐
lead DS
A bit dangerous at the bottom because of loose rocks from parties on the area above.
Noname2 f6a+ 🔩⭐
lead DS
Excellent stufff. Brilliant crag very close to GR. A bit like GC in character.
Noname1 f6a 🔩✨
lead DS
April 2001
La Grave 🏂 🌤
solo
Definitely the last run of the season. Lovely day, lots of sunshine but quite desperate snow conditions. I was almost caught in the biggest avalanche I have ever seen - I was completely alone on the whole Vallon side just catching my breath right under La Meije. I hear a crraaaackk, look up and boy oh boy oh boy, the whole serac fall is coming down. Absolutely mind-blowing to watch. It was just getting bigger and bigger in classic avalanche style - you know, developing this huge cloud of snow thundering down toward the valley floor right where I was standing. I waited a few second admiring the spectacle and then I was okay, that actually looks like a bad job and I started the engines and got further away while I could. I stopped some 500 meters further down and looked up again. Like some big disgusting animal the avalanche ate its way down the face and 30 seconds or so later engulfed the place where I had been in cloud and debris. Eventually it reached where I now was but was now a mere wind of snow. Absolutely fantastic to see. All other stuff was very avalanchy as well, but nothing as major as that baby. If only I'd brought my camera. I switched to my skiis midday but changed back to the gun after one desperate run.
La Grave 🏂 solo
Brilliant day. Worked on trying to jump the big serac thing on the left of the drag lift in the top. It's a massive drop and the landing is not very steep so you really gotta go for it all the way. I was there a couple of times but didn't do it. Even Tigers has limits. :-) - I successfully did my usual cliff jump on the left of the telepherique which is always amazingly adreanline pumpy.
La Grave 🏂 solo
Woke up. Looked at the webcam. Looked good. Headed off. Scrounged my way to a free lift ride. Conditions was pretty desperate actually. Fresh snow but very cold and the base was rock solid (not good for the big air landings). Also the avalance risk was quite obvious very high and I was glad to reach the bottom in one piece
Scialet des Joufflus 🪖 🧭Topo
MB
Beautiful cave - lots of little lakes and excellent formations. Perfect rig as well. See map
Stardust f6a 🔩 sec MB
Shirpa f6a 🔩 sec MB
Nose Dik f5 🔩 sec MB
Niou-Niou f6a 🔩 sec MB
Nestea f6a 🔩 sec MB
Lubna f6a 🔩 sec MB
Interlude f6a 🔩 lead MB
Hyades f6b 🔩 lead MB
This was to be my last lead this day. Tried a 6b/c but took a whipper before the last clip. I was pumped stupid and getting exhausted after an intense week of caving and snowboarding.
La Grave 🏂 ⭐
MB
Superb day. Excellent big air jumps and some really pumping carving. Absolutely shagged afterwards also partly because of heavy drinking at the previous night with Martin, Christian Holst and forty bottles of bottles of Christians vodka
La Grave 🏂 MB
Gnarled around a bit to figure out what the best descend would be with the access to P2 being unskiable. Perfect weather and only few people
Glaciere de Carri 🪖 ⭐💀
MB
Desperate trip. Got back up to the surface at 12'o'clock at night after a long day in the darkness. Our friends in Grenoble was getting well worried and had started phoning the local police etc. Luckily they sensibly held back any rescue attempts as we were perfectly fine. Glaciere de Scary!
Scialet de Fee Anglaise 🪖 🧭Topo
MB
Excellent cave ends in a big lake which goes of in the distance. Next time we'll bring a boat and explore further. This time we both put the double amount of clothes on and was relatively warm. See map
Scialet de Malaterre 🪖 ⭐🧭Topo
MB
Massive cave shaft - starts with a 120 meter (360ft) drop of a bridge - straight down in to the void. Desperate trip - quite wet and extremely cold. See map
Derby de La Meije 🏂 💪💯⭐
solo
Yearly off piste race of festive proportions. Came in 84th in the my category - time 12m33s
March 2001
Cri de guerre f6b+ 🔩🌟
lead SW
Perfert Saturday afternoon in superb weather. Almost no people had most of the world class rock to ourselves.
La Voliere f5b 🔩🌟
lead SW
On n'est pad des Betes f5c 🔩⭐ lead RI
Superb route! Layback and exposed back and footing in the chimney in the top.
Mocamba f5c 🔩✨ lead RI
First climb of the year and first climb in my new local crag. Excellent sports climbing.
La Grave 🏂 DS
Steep aaaaand deep. Did my favourite left side (facing the mountain) exclusively. Lot of queing in the lift unfortunately
Courchevel 🏂 DS
Despite quite crazy conditions (fluffy snow, sun, fog, snowstorm, rain, slush - all in a day) we managed to get some good stuff done. Good jumps.
February 2001
Les Larmes du Chaos W4 🧊 ⭐ PW TW alt
Very atmospheric climb. Good bit of spin drift on the second pitch steep (85 degress) and quite remote.
La Grave 🏂 DS
David and Annabel joined me for the evening and we had a good day skiing/boarding. Still plenty of deep snow
La Grave 🏂 RG
It had snowed a lot the previous day and we arrived to a perfect morning. Perfect snow, lots of it, no people
La Grave 🏂 solo
Ice climbed Saturday and it then snowed 30cm during the night and Sunday was a real treat on the gun. Excellent cornice surfing on the Vallons side. I think I've found my favourite line in La Grave. If only the lift didn't close so early (4pm). I was the third one down the slope in the morning though!
Pylone Right W3 🧊 🌟
sec
First ice climb in LG. Excellent stuff.
January 2001
🏂
Still powder left from the day before and an excellent snowdepth, soft and perfect for trying some festive jumps.
Sept Laux 🏂 PD
It had snowed in the morning, and the bastards closed the top bit (avalance danger) so I was confined to the piste. :-(
Sept Laux 🏂 solo
First time in the local ski resort. Good potential
La Grave 🏂
Only fresh powder on the very top section - really good stuff. The lower parts was icy and tricky on the Powder Gun
La Grave 🏂 solo
Bought a Swell Panik Magistral board and had the most amazing day in La Grave. 10-20cm of fresh powder under clear blue sky.
December 2000
Alpe Duez 🏂 PD RI RG
Spend the New Year break in Alpe D'huez the closest big resort to my new home in Grenoble
Manor Farm Swallet 🪖 DG MB
I decided to postpone the UK underground retirement for one more trip - I couldn't say no to a trip down Manor Farm with DG and MB. I wasn't disappointed. Dave now goes under the nickname 'Mr. President' (president for the HPCC) and I had the great pleasure of pushing through some really dodgy loose bouldery bits in the far end which was rewarded with a huge chamber which almost certainly had some further continuation. Dave and Martin unfortunately didn't reach this glorious chamber as they reckoned the boulder bits were too unstable.
November 2000
Ogof y Daren Cilau 🪖 ⭐
FW
Did it! RR went with us for 10 meters and then decided to back out after a worm attacked her in the entrance. We'd seriously misproportioned the whole cave - the entrance crawl and chambers beyond was much bigger than expected. We forgot the map which ment we couldn't make it further than the Great Chamber
Thrupe Lane Swallet 🪖 FW DG TW
Did the full through trip. A great evening out with TW and DG - possible the last for a long time now that Fred is going back to Denmark and Mathias is going bigger voids in Grenoble.
The Angel's Eye HVS 5b 4b 4b 🌟
alt MB
Severely hungover I quickly sobered up leading the easy but exposed and sparsely protected second pitch. Classic route.
October 2000
La Cosita Left 5.9 lead FW
Great route with everything. Looks imposible from below but is okay once you get commited. We wanted to do the amazing looking Sacherer Cracker afterwards went up the 5.7 Flaring crack and then it started to rain. Next time!
Church Bowl Lieback 5.8 ⭐
lead FW
Hidden gem. We climbed right next to Tom Frost (first ascensionist of El Cap) and called him a chicken. Truly festive guy.
Nutcracker 5.8 ⭐
lead FW
Incredible layback. We backed down after third pitch as it started to rain.
Goatchurch Cavern 🪖 💀
RR LH
Brilliant trip. Laerke's first ever caving trip and she was so on for it that we decided to do the full Goaty - into the letterbox and back. It's f*cking scary in there - sort of smells of evil and it was a stupendious effort from the girls.
Fairy/Hillier's Cave 🪖 FW TR RR
The Rhoades sisters had an unsettled bill in the sump of this fine system. We went all the way through Cambridge Grotto to the Red Room. Good to be back.
Ogof y Daren Cilau 🪖 FW RR
Oh baby! This hole had been on the ticklist for quite some time and still is! We had to turn back approx 350 meters in through the 530m crawl that guards the cave. RR had some bad equipment and was freezing and we decided to go back before it would be too late. I have the feeling we will be back - soon.
September 2000
GB Cavern 🪖 FW RR DG TR
Fine trip. Dave pointed out a number of challenges which we should attempt soon.
Sidcot's Swallet 🪖 FW RR
We got as far as the 'very narrow tube' and despite Mathias' attempt of squeezing through in underpants only there was no way it would go. Good trip.
Central Butress HVS 5a 4c 🌟
lead VM
Great Central Route HVS 5a 4b ⭐
lead VM
Excellent route. We finished of by rescueing two female muppets from Central Gully on the left.
Broken Bottle E1 5b 4c 🌟
lead VM
Cheetah VS 5a 4c - 🌟
lead VM
August 2000
King Kong 20m E1 5b 5a ⭐
alt TW
A very loose block now guards the start of this great route. More rock had fallen down since last year making the start much easier but more dangerous
Central Rib Route I S - 4a 4a ⭐
lead
My honourable colleague from Amazon.com was over for a day. Weather was good so we went climbing. Her first. Good job!
Bilbos Revenge HVS 5a lead TW
Surrealist pitch 3 E1 5b ⭐
lead SL
Still very pumpy but much less scary the second time. Good effort from Steve.
Dragonfly HVS 5a 5a 🌟
lead SL
July 2000
Quicksilber V- ⭐
lead
Excellent route. Superb rock big jugs on exposed ground. As festive as it
Oligmal V+ ✨
lead UH
Franska Trick VII- 🔩💪⭐
lead UH
This route had been on my Swedish ticklist for a long time. I was well pleased
Tyskeruten V+ 🌟
lead UH
The rock was still wet in places. The weather was improving as the day went on.
June 2000
Petros VS 4c ✨
lead VM
Mike's Mistake E1 5b - ✨
lead VM
Padansac E1 5c ✨
lead MB
Fast Grip E2 5b sec MB
Deep Space S 4a ✨
lead MB
Beside the Seaside S 4a ✨
lead MB
Song Child VS 4c lead MB
Glamdring VS 4c lead TW
Tried Killer Ant (E26a) but this time the yoor seemed to be missing so we did this nice VS instead.
Girion Direct E2 5c sec TW
The Magpie E1 5a sec TW
The White Tower E4 6a/b 🌟
lead TW
My first E4. I attemtped the route a week previously and fell off. Then I soloed it (self protected) the day before this attempt. Regardless of the climbing ethics it still (2010) is one of my most memorable routes perhaps because I had to wire it so clearly in my mind to get up it. Well proud to have reached this level through consistent climbing through the years.
Bifur VS 4b sec TW
The Gnome King HS 4b ✨
sec
May 2000
Goatchurch Cavern 🪖 FW
Our sister Henriette went to Bristol to figure out why her brothers like caving. She didn't find the answer but found out she is definitely not desperate to get underground again. Instead we went on an epic trip on the narrowboat
Swatter HVS 5a 5a 🌟
lead MB
Mosquito Bite E1 4c 5b ✨
lead MB
Disaster Area HVS 5a ✨
lead TW
The Clockwork Fingercrack E1 5b ✨
sec TW
Shagrat E2 5b 🌟
lead TW
The Owl and The Antelope E2 5b ⭐
lead PW
Last route of the day. It was either this or another HVS. Having pushed the limit quite a bit already I wasn't quite sure that I wanted to lead the magnificiently positioned slab which looked completely unprotected from below. We fired up the final bit of yoor and I went for it. An excellent route and the slab has *one* piece of perfect gear so that's plenty!
Let Me Know What Life is Like HVS 5b 🌟
sec PW
Great route. Paul finally picked up the sharp end and he led the route in fine style. Plenty of pro (very unusual at Navigation Quarry)
Totally Relaxed f6c 🌟
lead PW
Due to our almost unprotected adventure we decided to try some bolt clipping. I had to pull on the quickdraw in the crux. Great route if you can climb that grade! Oh yeah we tried Western Front Direct first. That's E56b on bolts. Paul lowered me off from the impossible roof.
Fly Me To The Moon HVS 5a ✨💀
lead PW
No gear from mid way. Had to pull up some commiting roofs with 20 meters of unprotected air underneath me. Really f*cking scary.
Valley Forge E2 5c 🌟 lead MB
Superb Saturday out in Wintours. Excellent routes which for me climaxed in this 135 foot hidden gem. Shame about the bolts left of the route which obscures the face a lot. Great hidden line though.
Clucthing at Straws E2 5c lead MB
Age of Enlightenment E1 5b ✨
sec MB
Childhood's End E2 5c ✨
lead MB
Broken Bottle E1 5b 4c ✨
lead MB
Aftermath VS 4c lead MB
Last Trump E1 5b 4c lead MB
Choker E1 5a 5a lead MB
Zombogies Direct E1 5b sec MB
Cave Left VS 4b sec FW
M1 E1 5b ⭐
lead FW
Excellent route! Really sustained climbing on a brilliant line. Starts with technical bridging then exposed traversing and finishing up a steep pumpy overhanging wall.
Surrealist E1 5a 4b 5b 4b ⭐
lead FW
A Fly in the Eye? E3 5c ⭐
lead PW
Thought for a few feet I was doing an HVS but then I realised that it was harder. Turned out to be E3. Yoist.
Wurlitzer E1 4c 5c ⭐
lead PW
Intravenous Feeding VS 4c sec FW
Social Criticism E1 5b ✨
lead FW
Hydraulic Jump VS 4c ✨
sec FW
White Wall Direct VS 4b sec MB
We were still alive after five routes in this Llangattock place - it *had* to be celebrated on the Hope and Anchor back in Bristol which it did.
Edge of Time E1 5b ✨
lead MB
Had the block I belayed from decided to let go while we were at it it would have been the end of it all. Great route.
Passage of Time E1 5b 🌟
sec MB
Amazing fingercrack from bottom to top almost. I was getting cold and a little bit fed up after Martin had spent what seemed like two or three hours emptying his chalkbag on the 24 meters of rock.
Little Overhang HVS 5a 💀
lead MB
Scary middle piece of loose shale above rp-gear lower down. Good character building stuff.
Apache HVS 5a sec MB
Stepped on a reasonably solid looking piece of rock which disappeared underneath my foot.
April 2000
Rebellion E1 5a sec MB
Fallacy HVS 5a ✨
lead MB
Cool Heat E2 5b 🌟
lead MB
Excellent route. Quite a powerful start and the rest is reasonably bold with very spacious gear and almost complete dependency on the concretions (which Martin had just shown are not necessarily in-situ).
Complex Variable E1 5a sec MB
Martin knocked of a concreted foothold which nearly hit me. Luckily he stayed on.
Ironside's Men E2 5b ✨
lead MB
Treason E1 5b sec MB
The Spanish Inquisition E1 5a ✨
lead MB
Bursting the Renaissance Bubble HVS 5b sec MB
Bubble Memory HVS 5a ✨
lead MB
Exit and Chameleon VS 4c lead MB
Good top pitch but the middle part is seriously vegetaged - even comparing it to the other routes we did that day.
Flies Rise HVS 4b 5b lead MB
Bzzz Splat HVS 5a 💀 lead MB
Quite a little epical excursion - at least on the sharp end. It was f*cking loose in the start and I nearly came off which would have ment a certain splat. Thing did *not* get any easier in the top. It was good climbing but the top was desperate. Gear was good but the finishing ledge was full of munge and I eventually climbed off leftwards.
Flyte HVS 4c 5a ✨
lead MB
Malbogies Direct E1 5b 4c ⭐🦎
lead MB
Another excellent 'after work' tick. What a route! The direct start definitely places a stiff crux in the bottom which was negotiated with an amble amount of Yoor.
Big Fly Direct E1 5a 5a 5a 🌟
lead MB
Excellent after work session. Although the last pitch was done in the dark we managed to get to the Rising Sun in time for a few beers. Met a few of the locals nice people.
Alum Pot 🪖 FW
Such an amazing hole in the ground. It was raining and there was quite a bit of water.
Eastwater Cavern 🪖 FW
Great little Saturday afternoon adventure. It was/had been raining a reasonable amount and there was a sizable stream entering the cave. We managed to do a nice round trip
Piton Route VS 4c 4a 4b lead MB
Bonbogies HVS 5a ✨
lead MB
Daydream VS 5a ✨
sec MB
Petros VS 4c ✨
lead MB
Reveille VS 4c ✨
lead MB
Pegasus HS 4b 🌟🦎
lead MB
Excelsior E1 5b ⭐🦎
lead MB
Detergent Wall HVS 4c ✨🦎
lead MB
Festive approach. The tide was coming in and we we negotiating some semisubmersed boulderhopping.
Great Western Arete HVS 5b 🤸🦎 lead MB
Strange grading - I lobbed on the 5a pitch which was really akward and hard.
South East Face Direct HVS 5a ✨
lead MB
Kittiwake HVS 5a lead MB
March 2000
Sunset Crack VS 4b sec TW
Tody's Wall HVS 5a 🌟
lead TW
Heartless Hair E3 6a 🌟
lead TW
Cave Crack E2 5c ✨🤸
sec TW
Chequers Crack HVS 5b 🌟
sec TW
Broken Crack VS 4c ✨
lead TW
Valkyrie HVS 5a 🌟
lead TW
Aron's Wall VS 5b ✨
lead TW
L'Horla E1 5b 🌟
sec TW
Bel Ami VS 4b ✨
lead TW
Predetor E2 5c 🌟
sec TW
Owl's Arete VS 4c ✨
lead TW
Avalanche Wall HVS 5a ✨
sec TW
Oesophegus E1 5b 🌟
lead TW
Loot E1 5b sec TW
Twang HVS 5b lead TW
Thrupe Lane Swallet 🪖 FW TW
Excellent trip. Did a 'double' abseil simultaneously next to each other and swapped over in the bottom
Giant's Cave Butress VS 4c - 4c lead SF
Shatter Cave 🪖 FW TW DG
Very pretty cave in the Fairy Quarry. It's normally locked so you need an official guide for this stuff. Impressive formations
Zero Hour HVS 5b lead MB
Hangover 77 E1 5b 🌟
sec MB
Bludgeon HVS 5a ⭐
lead MB
Cool for Cats E1 5b 🌟
sec MB
The Loosener HVS 5a ✨
sec MB
The Arrow E1 5b ✨
sec MB
Front Line HVS 5a 🌟
lead MB
Piggy's Crack HVS 5b ✨
sec MB
Clean Hand Blues Band E2 5b 🌟
sec MB
February 2000
Zelda HS 4a 4a ✨
alt MB
The Prow (Whitt) VS 4c 4c ✨
alt MB
The Druid VS 4c sec MB
Exchange VS 4b lead MB
Peacock VS 4b sec MB
Offspring VS 4c ✨
lead MB
Scooby Doo HVS 5a sec MB
The Russian HVS 5a ✨
lead MB
Red Rose Speedway HVS 5a 🌟
sec MB
Thrupe Lane Swallet 🪖 TW
We did the Latheral Aven pitch. But we missed our honoured caving mentor DG Grosvenor who unfortunately had other obligations this Friday evening
January 2000
La Grave 🏂 ⭐
JR LK
A week to check out the powder in Chamonix and La Grave. Great trip together with the skiers Jesper Ritzau and Lars Klammer. No trip report. No photos. But we have a fully edited movie (9 MB!)
December 1999
Thrupe Lane Swallet 🪖 TW DG
The second big SRT trip after Rhino Rift to do in the MD. We did it in three pitches - excellent stuff. We will be back soon to do the big 200ft single pitch
November 1999
Fairy/Hillier's Cave 🪖 TW
A job needed to be done and TW and I went in to finish the Fairy Cave business. We reached the 'Red Room' which is in the connected Hilliers Cave and is the furtherst reach of the system. Quite an amazing system and very well worth it. Recommendable
Fairy Quarry Cave 🪖 MI
Not an ideal trip. I forgot to stock up on carbide and didn't have a lot of juice in the batteries. So we went in as far as the duck and probably partly because I was nervous about the lights Mikkel didn't fancy the duck and we blew retreat and went out. Shame because I would have liked to show Mikkel the Red Room.
Lionels Hole 🪖 ⭐💯
FW
Awesome trip. We did the round trip which has some extremely challenging routefinding speically on the return. We were very pleased to get out
Heart of the Sun E2 5b 5b 5a 4a 🌟
alt MB
GB Cavern 🪖 DG TW
Great evening out in the MD. GB has some really awesome formations and some quite entertaining squeezes
October 1999
Swildon's Hole 🪖 FW
We were back to complete the round trip that we had attempted with Peter three entries down. This time the mud sump that we had rushed through was filled to the roof with water and after an hour or more of pumping water with no noticeable effect we went to explore the Black Hole Series instead. This ended when we arrived at a 40 foot pitch. Good day out. We were both exhausted
September 1999
Fairy Quarry Cave 🪖 📷Photo FW DG
We went in with Dave Grosvenor on a good trip in to the wonders of Fairy Cave. A surprisingly muddy experience. Some good technical obstacles to keep the wriggling techniques uptodate. A Grosvenor Special.
Leviathan VS 4c ⭐
lead MB
Climbers Club Direct HVS 5a 5a ⭐
alt MB
Has to be the best HVS of the year. Superb climbing on fantastic rock.
Mucky Gully D lead LS
Stand and Deliver E1 5b sec MB
Ironside's Men E2 5b 🌟
lead MB
August 1999
Swallows Nest VS 4b 4b alt SF
Freedom variation HVS 4b 5b alt SF
Inaccessible Crack VS 4c lead SF
Twisting Crack S sec SF
Gunter VS 4c sec SF
High Neb Butress HVS 5a lead SF
Tango Butress HS 5a sec SF
Hell Crack VS 4b sec SF
Step Ladder Crack VS 4c lead SF
The Styx HVS 45c lead SF
Amazon Crack S sec SF
Agony Crack HVS 5a lead SF
The Scoop HVS 5a lead SF
The Nose VS 4b lead SF
The Black Riders E1 5b sec TW
Mithril E4 6a 🤸
sec- JT TW
Joint led up in style. I popped off at the crux. Tim thirded it clean. Good route.
Jasper HVS 5a ☔ lead PS FW TR
A wet experience. It was raining quite a lot but Peter wanted to climb rock so we went for it. I led it but grabbed Fred's abseil rope in the desperate wet top.
Swildon's Hole 🪖 ⭐ FW PS
An excellent trip! We went into the St. Poul Grotto Series which included some very low crawls and passing a mud sump. Peter did well in this -not- a beginners section of the cave. We didn't manage the through trip though since Peter started having more than enough. We didn't realize that this actually was our probably one and only chance of ticking this sought after Swildon's collectors piece. Bummer!
July 1999
The Pygmies Got Stoned 5.10a 🔩
sec MB
Bloody Fingers 5.10a ⭐
sec MB
Double Vision 5.10a sec MB
Double Cracks 5.10a 🌟
sec MB
I started on this fantastic looking splitter but was lowered to the ground as the initial finger jam proved too much for my jamming skills.
Stan's Roof 5.10a ✨🤸💀
sec- MB
Martin started our City of Rocks experience with a serious lead up to Stan's Roof. He commited himself to some marginal smearing and I can't remember having seen Martin so close to popping off as the roof didn't contain an obivous thank God Hold. Scary stuff. I on the other hand popped off in the roof section.
The Pansy 5.10a 🔩
lead MB
Neon Leprechaun 5.10a 🔩✨
lead MB
Temporary Insanity 5.9 sec MB
Unknown 5.10a ✨
lead MB
Two Studs 5.8 lead MB
Shake Smear 5.9 sec MB
Citizens Against Spiders 5.9 ✨
lead MB
Basalt Somersault 5.9+ ✨
sec MB
The Doug Scott Route 5.9+ lead MB
June 1999
Hell Gates HVS 4c 5a 4b 🌟
alt SW
I did the direct variation a year ago and I reckon that to be a much better line than this Ed Drummond zig zag. The direct line is much better protected.
Frigg VS 4b sec NE
Seth E1 5b ✨
lead NE
Errant E2 5c ✨
lead NE
South West Diedre HVS 5a 🌟
lead NE
Arch Slab VS 4c lead FW
Joggled Wall Direct HS 4b sec FW
East Ridge VD 4c solo
Elrond VS 4c sec TW
Gundabad E1 5b sec TW
Gondolin VS 4b sec TW
May 1999
Swildon's Hole 🪖 FW TW RR
Good Trip. TR and RR both did Sump 1 in freezing cold water and in a very uninviting condition. RR even managed to become a 'Son of The MD*' as she fell into one of the pools twice. *) Read the guidebook for a further explanation
Treebeard VS 4c lead SW
Elrond VS 4c sec SW
Earl of Perth E1 5b 5a alt RS
The Lich HVS 5a lead FW
The Corpse HVS 5a sec FW
Arms Race E4 5c 🤸💪🌟📚Report
lead TW
My arms were like two wooden planks half way up. Loads of good pro which held several falls including a couple of pretty long whippers. Pulled it through in the end (with full use of the ringbolt). Will be going back again for a redpoint attempt.
Jasper HVS 5a lead TW
April 1999
Swildon's Hole 🪖 LK HL
I took Lars and Helene down Swildons Hole for a grand caving trip. Unfortunately the mission was aborted shortly after entering the cave due to too much 'noia'
Goatchurch Cavern 🪖 LK HL
After the failed attempt in Swildons we went for the Goatchurch instead - objective: to go through the drainpipe. We got to it after some persuasion but that was as far as the party wanted to go. Drainpipe 2 - Lars Klammer 0
Gondolin VS 4b ✨
lead FW
Pickpocket HVS 5a lead MI
March 1999
Suspension Bridge Arete HVS 5a sec FW
Limbo direct E1 5b 4b 🌟
alt FW
Viper crack VS 5a ✨
lead FW JC
Excellent day out in Cheddar. Weather was perfect and we finished the day of with this little steep splitter. We gave a rope end to a chap passing us on bicycle from London on his way to Penzane.
St. Cuthberts Swallet 🪖 FW DG TW
The yearly 'Insult DG' trip was as festive as ever. Sparrow treated us with several muddy squeezes and a good selection of pretty formations
King Kong E2 5c 5a 4a 🌟📚Report
alt FW
The route has fallen down and we did the new King Kong. Serious stuff. *Very* sustained. I reckon it's E2.
Simpson's Pot 🪖 FW TW RS
Tried a 'canyoning rappel' technique for the abseils. Worked okay but figures of eights and doubling the rope is preferable
Goatchurch Cavern 🪖 FW
We finally managed to get all the way in to the 'letterbox' - the furthest end of the classic cave. The letterbox is an extremely tight squeeze section very awkward specially on the return
January 1999
Western Saga 5.9 ⭐ lead FW MB
Brilliant fist/layback crack with exciting roof. Read the Trip Report.
Sail Away 5.8 🌟 lead FW MB
Felt easier than some of the previous days - are we finally getting used to Josh rock?
Mike's Book 5.6 [2] ✨
sec FW
Double Cross 5.7+ ⭐
lead FW
Double Crack E1 5a 5a ⭐
alt FW
Page 99 E2 5b 5c 💯⭐🔥 lead FW
Very sustained jamming and somewhat run-out at the top. Scary. A perfect climb with everything... Check out page 99 of "Climbing Magazine" - that's the one.
Double Crack VS 5a ⭐
sec FW
We climbed the first pitch and it got dark. We left the gear in and will continue tomorrow.
Chimney HVS 5b ⭐
lead FW
Square Boulder 2 5.11a 🔩
top
Square Boulder 1 5.11a 🔩
lead FW
Front Face 5.10d 🔩
lead FW
Very thin moves on steep slab followed by a marginal dyno to clear an overhanging bulge.
Paradise 2 5.9 🔩
sec FW
Paradise 1 5.10 🔩
lead FW
Alumbrado Publico 5.9 🔩
sec FW
Rokkesten 5.10 🔩
lead FW
Primavera 5.9 🔩
sec FW
Danza del Poder 5.10b 🔩
lead FW
Chimney 5.8 🔩
sec FW
Capitan Garfio 5.10 ⭐🔩
lead FW
Pinche Gripa 5.10a ✨🔩
sec FW
Siquiriqui 5.10d 🌟🔩
lead FW
Versachi 5.10b 🔩✨
sec FW
Symphonia de Ojas Secas 5.9 ⭐🔥📚Report
lead FW
Absolutely brilliant route with everything: technical jamming strength mantleshelf layback crack face etc...
Tennis 5.8 ⭐
lead FW
Right of Nacnactang 5.10a lead FW
Crack 5.10b top
La Proa 5.8 ⭐
lead FW
December 1998
Cueva Miso Ha 🪖 FW TR
Mathias negotiated a tricky entrance to a cave with a waterfall coming out of it. Ended in some muddy dig business
Cueva Xtacumbilxun 🪖 FW TR
Some interesting exploration but we didn't go down the main shaft where it looked really interesting. No SRT kit. Very visited
Tulum Pillar VS 4c ⭐🔥 solo
Great place. Superb rock rising from the beach. Very soft sand good for a potential fall.
Poptun 🪖 FW
Big tube with mud and good formations second level round trip with somewhat technical climbing and crawling. Long. Very visited
Lanquin 🪖 FW
Big chambers bats spiders lake with potential river lots of potential side passages one easy squeeze. Total virgin experience. Only very few traces of humans. Unique. FW managed to catch the 'Bat Disease' or Histoplasmosis as it is apparently called - pretty nasty lasted for weeks but he survived. Only he nows sleeps hanging from the ceiling
November 1998
Gaping Ghyll 🪖 ⭐
TW
Bar Pot. Possible my best caving trip so far. Interesting SRT'ing good deal of route finding and a long section of tunnels. All rewarded with the inconceivable main chamber of Gaping Ghyll. Photos
Notung E1 5a/b ⭐
lead MB
Pig Iron E2 5b ✨
lead MB
The Midas Touch HVS 5b lead CH
Moonraker HVS 5a 4b 4c ⭐
alt CH
October 1998
Fairview Dome 5.9 [11] 💯⭐ alt MB
Regular Route. We videoed the ascent. Come around my boat if you want to see it.
Brilliant laybacking jamming and underclinging. Thanks for the tip Royston.
September 1998
Ogof Ffynnon Ddu 🪖 DG
Excellent through trip. Hard. Wet. Had to swim several times. Massive cave system
Sell Gill holes 🪖 TW
Wet Entrance. My first rig - brilliant stuff. See map . And here are a few good photos
Left Unconquerable E1 5a 🌟
sec TW
Right Unconquerable HVS 5b ✨
lead TW
Fools Rush In E1 4c 5b - 🌟
alt MB
Really technical traverse of the Baggy Point Promontory Slab. I was pretty close to not making it but eventually pulled it through.
Lost Horizons HVS 5a 🌟
lead MB
Terrapin E3 5b ⭐📚Report
sec MB
A bold lead by Martin Beale (his first E3 lead). Read his story in here.
August 1998
Rock Idol E1 5a/b ⭐
lead TW
The Hole E1 5b 🌟
lead TW
World War III Blues E1 5b 🌟
sec TW
The Strait Gate E2 5b ⭐
sec TW
Kraken E1 5a 🌟
lead TW
Hangover 77 E1 5a/b ✨
sec TW
Depraved E1 5b sec TW
Venusberg VS 4a 4c 4b ✨
alt TW
Doorpost HS 4a 4b 4a ✨
alt TW
Firefly E2 4c 5c 🌟
alt TW
We climbed this Wintour's Leap classic in perfect conditions. Tim had a rare lack of confidence and I lowered him down from the midway stance. I was then left on my own on the ledge 25 meter above the ground waiting for Tim to throw down a rope from the top. This he did and I finished the route. Nice little Tuesday evening epic.
Red in the corner (indoor) 7a+ 🔩🔥
lead TW
Although indoor climbing is not featured a lot on Willerup.com I thought it appropriate to log my first ever 7a flash. Yooor!
The New Replublic HVS 5a sec MB
War is Declared E1 5b ✨
sec MB
One for All HS 4a sec MB
Laughing Cavaliers HVS 5b sec MB
No Musketeers Direct E1 5c 🌘
sec MB
We camped at the bottom of Shorn Cliff and ticked four more routes the next morning before going to work at 9am. (Started climbing at 5:30am).
Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5b 🌘
sec MB
All for One HVS 5a 🌘
sec MB
The Strand E2 5b 4c ⭐ alt TW
Very dodgy second pitch - specially in the light of a guy plunging to the ground the day before. First pitch is excellent though!
July 1998
A Dream of White Horses HVS 4c 4c 4c ⭐ alt RS TW
We were passed by three young lads who where soloing the Dream. Good going! (Tim later found out that one of them was Leo Houlding - young English E8-climber!)
June 1998
Loss of Innocence HVS 5b 🌟
lead RS
Easy Rider E1 5b 🌟
sec RS
The Brink Of Solarity HVS 4c lead TW
Simpson's Pot 🪖 TW
Simpsons Pot to Kingsdale valley entrance. Excellent through trip featuring a spectacular 25m abseil. Photo
Suspension Bridge Arete HVS 5a lead TW
Earl of Perth E1 5b 5a ✨
alt TW
Suspense HVS 5a sec TW
May 1998
Hangover 77 E1 5b ⭐
lead VH
B-Team Butress E1 5b 🌟
sec VH
Aero VS 5a lead VH
Whispering Wind E1 5b 🌟
lead VH
Rear Wind HVS 5a ✨
sec VH
Cool for Cats E1 5b ⭐
lead VH
Limbo VS 4c sec VH
Manzoku E1 5b 🌟
lead VH
I had forgotten all my friends for this weekend so all the routes were done on a set of nuts. Quite okay actually.
Blue Sky VS 4b 4b ⭐💯
alt WW
It was just such a great day. Had a wank at the stance out of sight of Will!
World War III Blues E1 5b 🌟
lead WW
Hercules HVS 5a 🌟
lead WW
Limbo VS 4c ✨
lead WW
Stennis Pillar HVS 4c 4a alt WW
Inner Space HVS 4b 4c 4c ⭐
lead WW
Sea Groove VS 4b 🌟
lead WW
Flanker VS 4c lead WW
Tactician HVS 5a 🌟
lead WW
Front Line HVS 5a ✨
lead WW
Floating Voter VS 4b lead RS
Jasper HVS 5a lead RS
The Split VS 4b ✨
lead TW
Swatter HVS 5a 5a 🌟
alt TW
Split Flies E2 5a 5c alt TW
Freedom VS 4b 4c 🌟
alt TW
Pothole Direct VS 5a sec TW
The Traditional Climb VS 4c lead TW
Great Western HVS 5a ⭐
lead TW
Frankland's Green Crack VS 4c sec TW
Congo Corner Direct HVS 5a 🌟
lead TW
The Crucifix VS 4c lead WW
Michelangelo VS 4c lead WW
The Crucifix VS 4c lead WW
Razzle Dazzle VS 4c ✨
lead WW
The Arrow E1 5b 🌟💯
lead WW
Chieftain VS 4b lead WW
Army Dreamers HVS 5a ✨
lead WW
Bomb bay VS 4a lead WW
Shell Shock VS 4c ✨
lead WW
Sandbagged VS 4C lead WW
April 1998
Night Rider VS 4c sec MB
One Less White Nigger HVS 4c lead MB
Emotional Dyslexia HVS 5a ✨
lead MB
Bursting the Renaissance Bubble HVS 5b sec MB
Renaissance E1 5b lead MB
Terrier's Tooth VD 4a 📚Report
alt MB
We were forced to climb this route in pretty extreme conditions.
Bishop's Rib E1 5b 5a 🌟
alt MB
Flannel Avenue S 4b 4a alt MB
Doorpost HS 4a 4b alt MB
Little Brown Jug Direct HVS 5a 5a 🌟
alt MB
All For One... HVS 5a ✨
sec MB
Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5a ✨
lead MB
March 1998
February 1998
Goatchurch Cavern 🪖 📚Report
LK
The guys had visited me all the way from Denmark to see Britol Rovers play against Oldham Saturday the 21th of February. Having arrived already Thursday night we were looking for something to do Friday. With Keld and Frede Firsttimer
January 1998
Central Gully W3 🧊 ⭐🔥📚Report
alt TW
My first proper iceclimb. Good stuff although a bit thin and delicate at places. Released a huge rock which thundered down the gully which was packed with 4-5 other teams. Not good! Nobody got hurt luckily.
November 1997
Tulamben 🤿 FW
Tulamben 🤿 FW
Menjangan 🤿 HW
Menjangan 🤿 HW
Lovina Reef 🤿 HW
Lovina Reef 🤿 HW
September 1997
Right Corner Alternative VS 4a 4c 4b alt WW
Some dudes before us psyked out and we had to create a route directly upwards from our stance to get out of the place.
South Face Direct VS 4b 4c 4b 4a ⭐
alt WW
The Baldest E1 5b sec TW
Pickpocket HVS 5a lead TW
August 1997
State of Independence VS 4b lead SW
Dinosaurs don't dino E2 5b 🔩
lead TW
Pocket full of Cryptonite E1 5b 🔩
lead TW
Beeline VS 4c lead TW
Pooh Stick E1 5b sec TW
Piton Route VS 4c 4a 4b alt SF
June 1997
Daydream VS 5a ☔
sec WW PD
It started pissing down while I was on the route which made the polished and slippery Avon Rock even more impossible to climb.
April 1997
The Firebird HVS 5a ✨
sec TW
Cadillac VS 4c ✨
lead TW
Questor VS 4c 🌟
lead TW
Suncrush HVS 5a/b ✨
sec TW
March 1997
January 1997
Col de Palet 🏂 💀 solo
Did the Col de Palet to Champagny run (alone!). A bit irresponsible in retrospect. Desperate on a snowboard
October 1996
Le Tozal f5c 🔩
lead OR
Nuit de Cauchemar f6b 🔩
alt DS
Otter Hole 🪖 💯⭐
FW TW DG
The entrance of Otter Hole has an exiting feature. The river Wye is tidal so the entrance is only open an hour or two during low tide. When the water comes in the entrance (and exit!) closes for about 10 hours which means that once we enter we are comitted for the whole day. Read the whole Trip report
September 1996
Various Routes alt MI
July 1996
Goatchurch Cavern 🪖 FW MF
Entertaining trip. Went all the way past the Drainpipe and up in the letterbox
June 1996
A lot of nice routes VS alt SF
Osiris VS 4c 🌟
lead WW
May 1996
Argonaut VS 4c 🌟
lead JI
Solid Air HS 4a second JI
Solid Air S alt JI
January 1996
Chamonix: 🏂 <9>
We only had three days as the following days was ear marked for Christmas purposes. There where a lot of nice offpiste riding
October 1995
Coronation Street E1 4b 4a 5b 5a 5b 5a ⭐🔥📚Report
alt FW
I still wake up with cold sweat on my forehead.
September 1995
Suspense HVS 5a ✨
lead FW
Limbo HVS 5b 4b 🌟
sec FW
All For One... HVS 5a ✨
sec FW
Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5a ✨
lead FW
Laughing Cavaliers HVS 5a 🌟
sec FW
Emotional Dyslexia HVS 5a lead FW
Organ Grinder HVS 4c 🌟
sec FW
Tigers Don't Cry HVS 5a 🌟🔥
lead FW
June 1995
L'arete des Bucherons V+ 🔩
sec FW
La Batson f6a+ ✨🔩
sec- FW
La Saphir/Sortie des Artistes V+ ✨🔩
alt FW
Petite Aiguille I IV 🔩
sec FW
Debilodrome V ✨🔩
lead FW
Super Sirene V 🌟🔩
alt- FW
Petite Aiguille II IV 🔩
lead FW
May 1995
January 1995
Transcript Direct VS 5a 🌟
sec FW
Crown of Thorns S 🦎
alt FW
Lion VS 4c 🌟🦎
alt FW
Crackstone Rib S 🦎
alt FW
Dives/Better Things HS 4a 🌟🦎
alt FW
Chamonix 🏂 solo
Spent two months in Chamonix, one week in Serre Chevalier (and La Grave) and one week in Val d'Isere. The off piste conditions in Val d'Isere was unbelievably good.
September 1994
July 1994
Sidcot's Swallet 🪖 FW
Swildon's Hole 🪖 FW
January 1994
Paco Eugene f6a 🌟🔩
alt FW
Algo Sobrela Virgin f6b ✨🔩
lead FW
El Perito Caliente f6a+ ✨🔩
sec FW
Aspro Manis f5+ 🔩
sec FW
Gecha el Cielo f4+ 6a 5 5+ 5+ 🌟🔩
alt FW
Troncomouil f6a 🔩
lead FW
Amptrax f5 🌟🔩
alt FW
Camello Cojo f5 🔩
sec FW
El Monstruo de Las Galletas f5+ 🔩
sec FW
Inominata f5 🔩
lead FW
Number 1 f4 🔩
sec FW
Super Galetta f5+ ✨🔩
lead FW
Los Mandriles No Comen Galletas f6a ✨🔩
sec FW
Empotrador Empotrad f4+ 🔩
alt FW
The Wire VS ⭐🔥💀 alt FW
Wild ride on the wire. Required careful preparation and a full package of yoor.
El Regreso del Patron f7a 🔩
alt- FW
We didn't have a topo at this time and the line looked reasonable. It wasn't so we went off route to easier ground before the crux
Barrio Conflictivo f6a+ 🌟🔩
lead FW
Esponlon del Rampa f6a 🔩
FW
Papeo Chachi f6a 🔩
FW
Super Lopez f6b 🔩
FW
McNesio f6a 🔩
FW
Diedre IV+ sec FW
Waterloo V+ ✨🔩
lead FW
No Repercute f6a+ 🌟🔩
sec- FW
El Senor de las Bestitas f6b 🔩
lead FW
January 1992
One tricky move VS 4b lead
Originalruten D lead
Diedren D lead
Den store diedre D lead
Toebrud D lead
Ventetiden S lead
Svenskeruten VS 4b ⭐
lead
Finger jam VS 4b ⭐
lead
Spirillen VS 4a lead
Pentymal/Daffy jam VS 4a lead
Diedren VD lead
Den stejle groove S lead
Traditionel VD lead
Den hoeje travers VS 4b lead
Klasisk IV S lead
Koalakanten VS 4c top
P.S. Diedren HS lead
Originalruten S 🌟
lead
A little piece of quartz got into my eye and I had to get it out with local anastaetic the next day on the hospital. Very nasty.
Svaeveflyvervaeggen S lead
Myretuen S lead
Svenskervaeggen S lead
Lynet A1/2 lead JR
My first aid climb. Excellent stuff. I fell on my smallest rp and it held. Good good fun.
January 1991
Traditionel D sec JR SH
September 1991. My first ever climb. Jesper Ritzau took Simon Hauch and me up this 2 pitch route on Aakermansberget on Kullen. I was pretty excited for almost a whole year having done this one climb. It was good fun and it was the start of something big!
Wish list
Juvsojla W6 🧊 🔘
WISH
Tuborg E3 🔘
WISH
Great Crack E2 🔘
WISH
Machu Pichu E3 🔘
WISH
Tor Line E3 🔘
WISH
Melange E3 🔘
WISH
Ettan E2 🔘
WISH
Ingmars Kamin E2 🔘
WISH
Black Shiver 🪖 🔘
WISH
Freak Brothers E4 5c 🔘
WISH
Yosemite E2 5c 🔘
WISH
Bovbjerg Fyr 🪂 ⭐
PP